23baseball3
New Member
I find the silence here depressing. Go 'Vettes!!!!
Posts: 15 
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Post by 23baseball3 on Mar 29, 2014 12:56:55 GMT -5
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23baseball3
New Member
I find the silence here depressing. Go 'Vettes!!!!
Posts: 15
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Post by 23baseball3 on Mar 29, 2014 13:45:42 GMT -5
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Post by druggles85 on Mar 29, 2014 14:27:23 GMT -5
I remember that following that build. I liked this one better, although I'm not crazy about all the cutting in the rear seat area. www.turbobricks.org/forums/showthread.php?t=195979The quad4 swap looks like it's going to be cool, That's one I would like to be able to do. He updates us from time to time on "The Chevette Forum" members.boardhost.com/Vette_Man/msg/1395789601.htmlMy goal is to rebuild the factory engine shooting for about 100hp at the crank, find some good shocks and springs, and a decent set of tires. |
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23baseball3
New Member
I find the silence here depressing. Go 'Vettes!!!!
Posts: 15
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Post by 23baseball3 on Mar 29, 2014 17:15:13 GMT -5
100 HP at the crank sounds fantastic. What are you planning on doing to achieve that?
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Post by druggles85 on Mar 29, 2014 20:34:36 GMT -5
I'm planning on printing out a copy of this post chevetteracing.proboards.com/post/9044 and walking into the nearest reputable shop with cash in hand  I'd like to just farm out the machine work and do the build myself, but I don't think I'm ready for that yet. |
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23baseball3
New Member
I find the silence here depressing. Go 'Vettes!!!!
Posts: 15
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Post by 23baseball3 on Mar 29, 2014 22:31:10 GMT -5
I feel like an Iron Duke swap would be cheaper than doing all of that, and it would yield the same horsepower for a more common engine that is easier to find parts for. If you have a T5, it will bolt right on.
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Post by testiclease on Mar 30, 2014 8:56:05 GMT -5
I don't know about the ID being easy to find any more. Have heard the total opposite. It's not hard to get 100hp out of the 1.6. I did most of the stuff on that list. didn't lighten the crank, and pistons still have a dish. just used regular moly rings with a .040 bore. Mine dyno'd at 77 hp ans 79 ft/lbs at the wheels @4600 RPM. with an AFR of 18:1 I felt a large difference once I got the AFR right, but don't know what the hp numbers would be. So 100 hp at the crank is easily achievable. I'm pretty close to 100 crank hp with my first engine build, and I missed a lot of the details that engine builders know that could have squeeked out. Hoping to get it back on the dyno this year. Will have the same motor, but upping to a holley 350 carb. The track I run mine on has me screaming that little sucker between 6800 and 7500 rpm for the entire race.
I built my whole race motor for $1500. To new spec. Thats machine work, head, cam, pistons, header and carb, water pump, oil pump, you name it. Won't find and deck out an Iron Duke for that these days.
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Post by druggles85 on Mar 30, 2014 9:35:35 GMT -5
The Iron Puke is tall and heavy and doesn't make any power cheaply either. The intake and exhaust are on the wrong sides for our application and while they make a few more horsepower stock vs stock. The general consensus is it's not a worthwhile swap. Especially when a 60 degree V6 swaps in so easily.
I don't know what kind of performance you'd get from the build Fields posted, I'd imagine north of 100hp I just meant that 100hp would be enough to make the car more fun.
A swap I would like to see is an early 90's Miata engine and trans converted to a distributor and side draft carbs.
***EDIT*** oops, didn't refresh the page to see testiclease slipped a post in there. Thank You. Nobody ever posts any numbers on the Chevette Racing forum. I need to start saving my pennies. ***/EDIT***
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Post by testiclease on Mar 30, 2014 9:57:16 GMT -5
You should be able to build one for roughly the same. I got a good deal on the machine work and scoured the internet for good deals on parts. biggest cost is the head. I got mine already done off a racer for $150. That was the biggest savings on the whole car. The rest is all elbow grease and attention to detail.
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Post by Moloko on Mar 30, 2014 10:32:18 GMT -5
Our our 77 made 48hp to the wheels, and it moves pretty good. I'm on the search for a header, but they seem to be extinct.
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Post by Moloko on Mar 30, 2014 10:32:25 GMT -5
Our our 77 made 48hp to the wheels, and it moves pretty good. I'm on the search for a header, but they seem to be extinct.
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Post by testiclease on Mar 30, 2014 11:18:20 GMT -5
Custom Craft still makes a header. Custom CraftIt will take some work to fit in a stock engine bay. Rubs a bit on the engine mount and interferes with the metal on the lower control arm mount where it ties into the firewall. |
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Post by druggles85 on Mar 30, 2014 12:04:16 GMT -5
Nice I've got an Everclear bottle I'm stuffing full of small bills to use as a header fund (I need to smash the bottle to get the money out) It's good to have somebody on here with some experience with these parts. Could the clearance issues be fixed with a BFH? or is it more serious than that?
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Post by Moloko on Mar 30, 2014 12:05:08 GMT -5
I'll probably just make my own. That header seems very large for a street car.
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Post by druggles85 on Mar 30, 2014 12:13:23 GMT -5
Don't forget about the factory dual output manifold of the HO Chevette, If you can find one complete enough to buy. I've always heard they're a worthwhile upgrade from stock... Don't have any first hand experiance though.
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I'd like to just farm out the machine work and do the build myself, but I don't think I'm ready for that yet.
